From claypot-aged Negra Mole in the Algarve to elegant blends from Beira Interior, a new generation of Portuguese winemakers is redefining regional excellence
– May 30, 2025 | Text Patrick Stuart & Alexandra Stilwell
Our wine experts weigh in on their latest discoveries.
João Clara Claypot Red
It was the João Clara winery located near Alcantarilha, here in the Algarve, that first impressed me with a wine made from the Algarve’s Indigenous Negra Mole variety.
This is the grape that once prevailed here in the Algarve, making much of the cheap local plonk sold in five-litre flagons that anyone who lived here 20 or 30 years ago will remember.
Back then, nobody had ever thought of trying to make a high-quality wine from this grape, a variety that is unusual in that a ripe bunch is made up of both red and white grapes.
Many of Negra Mole vineyards in the Algarve were torn up by the new wave of producers who, over the last couple of decades, have put our region on the wine map planting mostly international varieties.
Some producers, however, such as João Clara, nurtured these old vines, whilst others over recent years, have planted Negra Mole.
Today, there are a number of producers in the region making high-quality wines from this grape, notably Arvad near Silves, the Santos winery near Carvoeiro and Morgado do Quintão near Lagoa.
The wines are often compared to Pinot Noir or Gamay in terms of style. They are light-bodied reds that, when treated with care, can produce smooth and elegant wines that will please the palate of most Pinot and Gamay lovers.
This latest wine from João Clara is an excellent example. Fermented and aged in traditional clay pots, it’s pale, almost violet in colour, with fresh berry fruit aromas.
In the mouth, it’s well-rounded with soft tannins and good acidity leading to a lingering finish. It may seem expensive at around €27, but the quality more than justifies the price tag.
Casas do Côro Reserva Red
The Beira Interior region is a pretty remote part of Portugal, sandwiched between the Douro and Dão regions to the north of the Serra da Estrela mountains.
But it’s a region that produces some excellent wines, and this vineyard, Casas do Côro, is also home to one of Portugal’s most chic wine resorts of the same name.
This is a pricy wine, normally costing upwards of €40. A full-bodied red from the 2015 vintage, already drinking very well but still with plenty of structure and acidity, making it well worth laying down for a few more years.
The wine is still fresh and vibrant on the nose, with deep dark fruit notes and hints of olives. Tannins are well-rounded but evident, revealing a very long and dry finish.
Dito Cujo wines
The Algarve boast a new wine producer. Located in Algoz, Dito Cujo, which roughly translates to “so-and-so”, is a small venture run by producer João Caldeira, supported by winemaker Dinis Gonçalves (Cabrita Wines).
So far, this young project has produced three blends. The Dito Cujo Red (€16), made with Touriga Nacional, Syrah and Alicante Bouschet, reveals notes of jammy red fruit with hints of bergamot and white pepper.
The Dito Cujo White (€13), a fresh blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Arinto with notes of lime zest and passion fruit, and the Dito Cujo Rosé (€12), an Aragonez and Touriga Nacional blend with fresh, citrus and tropical fruit aromas.
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